Saxon's World Adventures

The Big Day in Marcolo

2006-08-22T14:08:00.000-07:00

Today we would be attending the long anticipated event of the family reunion and dinner. Before dinner, however, we attended mass in the town's beautiful, and comparatively modern cathedral. It was packed as you might expect and afterwards we met more family that had heard of our arrival.

Later that afternoon we made our way to the restaurant where the party was getting under way. I expected a small, quaint little place where bowls of pasta would be passed around along with the sauce, we would drink lots of wine, and call it a day. Instead, we entered this brand new restaurant with sleek, modern furnishings, and were escorted to a private room where we would live for the next three hours doing nothing but eating and getting to know our new family. The dinner was served in 4 courses with each course a meal within itself. Never have I eaten so much! As each wave of food would be served the pain of over-indulgence would rise another notch. The meal consisted of antipasto meat platter made up of various sausage, ham, prosciutto, and salami, followed by the second course of saffron spiced risotto mixed with chicken. The third course was the main course of delectable, pepper-corn encrusted London broil cooked to perfection and tender enough to cut with a fork. The last course was a dolce platter of various desserts and ice-cream along with coffee, grapa, and more lemoncella. Afterwards, we spent the rest of the afternoon in spirited conversation with the family as we celebrated this grand occasion.

That afternoon we had a small pool party at the home of Louisa and Beniomino which was a perfect way to end the afternoon. The pool felt luxurious as we lounged around in the hot afternoon sun digesting not only the wonderful meal, but the entire Marcolo experience.

The end of the day we returned to home where our hosts prepared a 'light' meal of home-made minestrone (fresh from the garden of course), a pork meat platter, cake, and some espresso. It was at that moment we announced to Mariadella and Antonio that we were not leaving, ever (not really but I frankly don't know what stopped us - Fran was retired, I didn't remember what I did for a living, and we were gone so long we both forgotten our son's name).

The next morning we said our good-byes and invited them to our house when they come to America, which they promised they would do.

Travel To Marcolo

2006-08-22T12:07:00.000-07:00

We knew this travel day was going to be a challenge since the village of Marcolo is far off of the tourist map and there would be no direct route to our destination. Our day started with one last glimpse of Venice on the water bus. The day was warm but crystal clear and the views were absolutely stunning. My best picture of Venice, I think, was taken on the water bus to the train station of Santa Maria della Salute. When we arrived at the train station we already had purchased our reservations - thanks to our daughter - and boarded for our short ride to Milan without incident.

When we arrived in Milan, Fran and I realized this was our third time passing through this train station. This was not surprising since Milan seems to be the transportation hub for that region of Europe. Our next task was to haul ourselves and luggage to the subways of Milan and board a train that would take us to a particular stop to next catch the bus. The pace was hectic and the surroundings were quite unfamiliar but we were not concerned since there was 10 of us traveling we had strength in numbers. Also Andy, Matt's brother, was our tour director for this leg of the journey so were in good hands.

We boarded the bus in some park on the outskirts of Milan for the town of Magenta. We were nearly there but there was still one unknown. There was no public transportation to Marcolo and it was probably 2-3 miles from Magenta. Everyone was up for a hike so 10 of us got our stuff together after we de-boarded the bus and started marching down the main highway like Gypsies and headed to the family's ancestral home. We made it their fairly quickly after Andy flagged down a van to take us all into town. The gentleman was very nice and refused any money when he dropped us off in Marcolo.

Our first stop was the house commonly referred to as the Roster House because of the concrete roosters on the placed on top of the gate posts This is considered the central gathering area for all family events and happenings so it was no surprise to the family that we started there. As soon as we arrived we were introduced to the cousins, aunts, uncles, and distant relatives who appeared immediately as soon as word spread through town that the folks from America were finally here. David, Matt's father, was now in charge because not only did he know everyone but knew enough Italian to be our official interpreter.

The first job at hand was determining where everyone was going to sleep. It was no surprise that the families were prepared but details of who stays where were yet finalized. Finally, four of the ladies, who I later decided were the ruling council for the clan, chatted in rapid-fire Italian hammering out not only the sleeping arrangements but the entire schedule for the next three days. Finally, the 'white smoke' of consensus appeared and we all eagerly awaited the decisions.

Fran and I were placed in the home of Mariadela and Antonio who, along with their dog Capula, warmly welcomed us and could not have been nicer. Even though we were slightly related through the marriage of Matt and Michelle, in their eyes we were considered not just friends but blood relatives. Their hospitality and charm was so sincere that we felt like we were home and, as homesick as we now become, this was where we wanted to stay forever. Fran and I realized that we were now living the Olive Garden commercial 'where you're not just guests but family'.

That evening, Fran and I were exhausted as well as famished and as were were unpacking and settling into our bedroom we weren't sure what was going to happen next. Just as that moment Mariadela summoned us to the kitchen for a 'simple' (Mariadela's words) meal of pasta and pomodoro sauce, green beans, a crisp green garden salad, their best red wine, a tasty dessert, followed by some home-made lemoncello and cappuchino. This was a meal to die for as everything was so sumptuous and fresh from the garden. It was heaven! The rest of the evening was a delight as the Mariadela and Antonio's command of English language was far better than our Italian so we spent the next two hours getting acquainted, telling stories of our trip, hearing about their family and what life is like in Marcolo. By midnight, after sipping on our last glass of lemoncello it was time to retire.

The next morning Mariadella was already up and preparing breakfast while Antonio was in the garden working. We discovered that their garden is not just a hobby but is central to their existence. So much of their food is produced from the garden that to eat 'non-fresh', processed food would be just out of the question. Antonio gave me a tour of the garden much like a curator would lead one through an art gallery. Although it didn't look it at first, the garden was carefully laid out to take advantage of the sun and soil condition. Each plant was carefully tendered to ensure maximum productivity and abundance. Antonio gleamed in pride as he introduced each plant as if it were one of his children.

For the next three days we were introduced to a part of Italian culture that few people get to experience. David led us on tour of the entire community to visit family, learn their stories, and better understand the lives they lead in this part of the world. We visited a family who keep a large array of birds caged in their back lot for special dinner occasions including pheasant, duck, and chickens. In addition there were plenty of fruit trees and an overly abundant garden to keep them well stocked for the year. At the end of each day we returned to another feast created by Mariadella and Antonio and, as always, we reciprocated by licking our plates clean.

One special night we were treated to was a presentation of Pinocchio that was staged at a local school gym by the citizens of Marcolo. This appeared to be the grand, annual event as everyone was there either performing or in the audience. For the next three hours we enjoyed a wonderful musical that was the result of months of hard work and planning by the locals. Interspersed with the play was musical entertainment presented by the local orchestra which played tunes from all over the world including some popular Disney classics. Afterwards we strolled through the village and returned back to our home away from home where we sipped on some cappuchino and dessert, engaged in more conversation, and then retired for the evening.

June 29 - Last Day in Venice

2006-08-20T14:52:00.000-07:00

Today we went to the Doge's Palace to tour the dazzling rooms of these earlier rulers of Venice. The lavish decor of the meeting rooms, judges chambers, and administrative offices contrasted with the drab surroundings of the prisons and torture chambers spoke volumes of the cruelty of these early rulers. They did show some compassion in that if you were condemned to die you could chose the mode of execution - either hanging or beheading. I, of course, would have said "Surprise me".

In the evening after dinner everyone went their separate ways to walk around and discover the final treats that Venice had to offer. Fran and I decided to throw caution to the wind and just start walking. You really can't get lost in Venice and I wanted to find the famous La Fenice Opera House (made famous by the book "City of Fallen Angels" by John Berendt and a wonderful read by the way). So we set out just after sunset and started walking through the canyons of Venetian hotels, apartments, and shops in search of the opera house. When walking through Venice you really have to be ready to stop at anything curious. Every block and around every turn there is something new, probably something you've never seen before - an art gallery featuring local paintings, a clothing store with one-of-a-kind silk ties, a toy stoy with objects so unique you won't find anywhere else in the world, and cafe's with heart-stopping aromas that makes your mouth water like a hyena.

On our way to the opera house we were stopped by someone who invited us into this particular church for a free concert presented by an American choir. Since we were flexible with our schedule (you have to be in Venice) we went in a sat down. The church was small with seating about 300 people but the wall decor was breath taking. The alter was this immense detail sculpture of Moses coming down from the mountain with the stone tablets. The figures were so life-like you propelled to the Sinai desert so many centuries ago. And then the musinc started... They started quietly with the Latin choral favorite, Dona Nobis Pacem which means "Give Us Peace". Fran and I were familiar with this song and had song it many times in church and Colorado Repetoire Singers or CRS. Never before had we heard it, though, in a setting such as this in a sanctuary centuries old with acoustics so perfect you became lost in the music. Every note seem to float endlessly as the choir surrounded the congregation and graced us with their perfect harmony and genuine passion. For me they could have ended it there as our vacation was made complete by this near religious experience. But they had more gifts for us including Walking in the Spirit, Down By The Riverside, When The Saints Go Marching In and Haydn's Gloria.

In the end they left us begging for me but, as we later found out, this was their last stop before returning to America. Afterwards, Fran and I introduced ourselves and described the community choir we belong to in Broomfield. The conductor, Chris Bowman, knew our choir, was acquainted with our maestro, Ron Williams, and reminded us that CRS performed one of his arrangements at our last concert called Sanctus. Small World! The choir, named Santa Ynez Valley Chorale & Orchestra, were based out of Santa Barbara, California. They consisted of folks from all walks of life who all shared a common passion for music. The group was an all volunteer choir that rehearsed weekly and performed several times a year. In addition, they put together this European adventure of traveling through various countries and perform in whatever musical venue was available.

By now it was quite late but Fran and I were still energized by the concert so we continued our journey through Venice to find La Fenice. 20 minutes later there it was. A bit off of the beaten tourist path, this area consisted of restaurants with finely dressed patrons, 4-star hotels, expensive looking cocktail lounges, and the center piece of it all - La Fenice opera house. A magnificent structure created only recently and built on the old foundation of the original La Fenice that burned down in 1996.

June 28 - 2nd Day in Venice

2006-08-17T19:52:00.000-07:00

First business at hand was to do the wash. Our hotel clerk directed us to a Laundromat which was amazingly close. By now our clothes were so 'ripe' from frequent use that the pidgeons thought we were one of them. After donning on fresh clothes we made for the streets of Venice to explore some more.

We stopped at St. Marks Basilica for a brief tour. We actually found an English speaking guide that, for about 50 Euros, was able to take us in right away bypassing the long lines.

The inside of this Byzantine structure was dark and uninspiring. By now we had seen our fair share of churches so we were starting to get somewhat particular. There are some interesting artifacts, such as the four bronze horses that, although quite unique, seemed out of place. The center piece to this structure was, of course, the tomb of St. Mark, author of the Gospel of Mark.

After St. Marks we caught the vaporetto to the island of Murano to tour the famous glass blowing shops. The glass work on this island is very expensive and way out of our price range. I ended up buying a couple of wine stops that were about 30 Euros. A set of wine glasses that we were attracted to were well over 300 Euros not including shipping back to the states. We stayed on the island for only a short time because by now the heat was insufferable. We weren't sure what the temperature was but it was time for our daily, cool afternoon siesta, so we went back to the hotel.

Later that afternoon we all gathered again and went to dinner. It was nice once again as we caught up with everyone on the events of the day. That night we went walking along the Grand Canal towards the famous Harry's Bar, not far from San Marcos, to sit where Hemingway sat. Turned out it was so crowded inside and everyone was so over-dressed (even though our tourist garb was just laundered) that we didn't go in. We did get a great view of Santa Maria della Salute that evening which is one of the most inspiring structures in all of Venice. And no wonder as this structure was built as a celebration of the end of the plague that gripped that part of the world - and served as a 'welcome mat' to incoming sailors.

The day came to a close all too quickly once again so we hiked back to our rooms and retired to, of course, more soccer on TV and some much needed rest.

June 27 - First Day in Venice

2006-08-15T09:00:00.000-07:00

Today we departed the peaceful surroundings of Assisi and boarded the train to Venice. This was a significant day because, not only were we visiting one of the most beautiful cities on the planet, but we were meeting more family there to add to our ever-growing entourage that would eventually descend upon the small village of Marcolo (more about that later). Our ride up to Venice was challenging because we did not make reservations through Treno Italia so we were faced with additional fare and no reserved place to sit. It seems that for travel to major citires in Italy it is advised that you secure your reservation, especially if you are traveling first-class, by purchasing an additional ticket. The Euro-Rail pass will get you on board but it won't, by itself, always secure a seat. It worked out fine even though the final hour of the trip was spent standing in the club car with my son-in-law while drinking espresso, admiring the scenery, and chatting about soccer and other stuff - it was actually quite fun.

When we arrived in Venice we realized we were in a different world. There were no noisy cars, trucks, or scooters clogging the streets but instead we were greeted with the quiet sounds of boats, gondolas, and vaporettos floating through the intricate network of canals that are laced all through the city. We hopped on our water bus and headed to our designated stop, Santa Zaccaria Monumento. Finding the hotel, I knew, would be a challenging task. The map I had was pretty good but it lacked significant details. After asking around and getting guidance from some locals we found our hotel called Hotel Fontana. It was perfect! It was close to San Marco plaza but far enough away from the throngs of tourists to make us feel somewhat secluded.

After checking in and a quick lunch we hit the streets and started getting the lay of the land. Our first major site was the famed Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal. This centuries old structure was interesting with its little shops and amazing views of the Grand Canal. The only other bridge across the Grand Canal, the Accademia, was smaller and offers a glorious view of the Santa Maria della Salute.

As you walk around this great city you see signs of its constant struggle against the elements. These aging structures suffer from the onslaught of pollution, weather, rising water, and ferocious sun. Although the effort to stave off these attacks from nature (and man) is heroic, one can't help but wonder how long this war can continue before it is all swallowed up and cast out to sea.

Its amazing to see how a city (and an entire culture) has adapted to the water environment. Even though there are no trucks to haul goods and services, somehow this conveyance occurs with the use of barges and gondolas designed to move large amount of cargo through the labyrinth of the canals. You can witness this every morning as all of the Venetian commerce is supplied by a steady flow of these floating 'mules' to their destinations. By the time the tourists wake up and begin the task of touring, which includes eating, shopping, and sight-seeing, the town is fully prepared and open for business.

That evening we had set our rendezvous point with Matt's family at San Marco Piazza by the famous Campanile tower for 5:00PM. There were all there and right on time! It was good to see the folks from St. Louis again, many we had not seen since Matt and Michelle's wedding. Now we were a group of 10 so the party could really begin. That night Matt and Michelle bought us all dinner at one of the many sidewalk restaurants in Venice, to celebrate Matt's promotion at his work and to the gathering of the clan. It was a great night of wine, food, and conversation as we all shared stories of our adventure across Europe. David, Judy, Sarah and Lance had been traveling by car through Italy (brave souls) and had some interesting stories about traffic on the highways in Italy - apparently an endeavor not for the squemish. After a very pleasant evening we all retired to our rooms and called it a night.

Befire going to sleep I did some mental calculations and realized we had been gone for over 2 weeks and the return to home was now starting to appear on the horizon. We were getting a little homesick as we missed our son the comfortable surroundings of our home, we still felt the best was yet to come. I tried to remember what I did for a living back in America but was at a loss. I guess I'll figure it out when I get back. No point in sweating it out now. I'm lucky to remeber the day of the week.

June 25 - Assisi

2006-08-11T19:03:00.000-07:00

Today we arrived in the city of Assisi after a short 2 hour train ride from Rome. As we pulled into the station I realized I didn't have a clue how to get to our hotel so once again so I grabbed the first taxi (and only taxi available), showed him my hotel card, and off we went. Of course we later learned that we should have taken the bus and saved 40 Euros but I didn't feel like standing around trying to figure out the bus route because I was concerned we would take the wrong bus and suddenly find ourselves back in Rome. As it turned out, there is only one bus route so how could have I gone wrong (I would have figured it out).

We got to our hotel in the heat of the afternoon and hurriedly checked in so we could catch our usual siesta in our air-conditioned bungalow. When we got to the room it turned out the AC didn't work. I went to the desk to complain so without really understanding what the hotel clerk told me we were moved across the hall to another room. Once settled in we tried to turn on the AC and it didn't work either. We were too tired to worry about it so we just snoozed and we later learned that what I was trying to turn on was the heater - there was no AC in the room (Geez my Italian really sucks!!.

Today was especially exciting because we would reconnect with Matt and Michelle who had been touring Amsterdam, Germany, and Switzerland since we left them in London. They also attended a World Cup match so we were looking forward to their adventure stories - and anxious to share ours. They arrived later that afternoon hot and tired but glad to see us as we were them. We cleaned up and decided to head up to a restaurant that Matt knew of from his previous visit which was near a local campground outside of town. The place was gorgeous with outdoor seating, camping-like atmosphere, serve yourself style service, and some of the best open-grilled food I've ever had. We tanked up on lots of wine, ordered some grilled chicken with salads and veggies and ate until we moaned from over indulgence - and then we slurped some expresso and dessert. Magnificent!

After a very hot and restless night we woke up about 5:30AM to the sound of the morning songbirds that inhabit the hills outside of our balcony. I went out on the deck and caught a stunning view of the morning sun rising behind the beautiful Umbrian hills. As I stood their absorbing the comforting rays of the sun, the deep, spiritual ambiance of this village began to seep in. We were somewhat familiar with the story of St. Francis by virtue of a musical that our church performed a number of years ago. Although we were a Methodist congregation, many of the local Catholics attended our performances and later told us they were deeply touched by our performance as we had very effectively and profoundly captured the essence of this great man. Through that experience we became acquainted to Sister Clare, the Umbrian plains, the wolf of Gubbio, and the man who became a legend in the Christian world through peace, humility, and service. After breakfast we ventured on up to the famous Grotto which became a spiritual retreat for St. Francis. We're told it was here he felt closest to God and became inspired to reject his life of luxury to a life of poverty and service to God. Although we didn't see it, his famous Peace Prayer is inscribed up here, a timeless prayer whose relevance is as strong today as it was in the 1200s.

Lord, make me an instrument of your peace, Where there is hatred, let me sow love;where there is injury, pardon;where there is doubt, faith;where there is despair, hope;where there is darkness, light;where there is sadness, joy;
O Divine Master, grant that I may not so much seek to be consoled as to console; to be understood as to understand; to be loved as to love.
For it is in giving that we receive; it is in pardoning that we are pardoned; and it is in dying that we are born to eternal life.

That afternoon we took a cab back from the Grotto to town to tour St. Francis Basilica. When you enter the basilica you're immediately drawn back to the 13 century with heavy wooden timbers and towering walls of the Nave adorned with frescos depicting the life of St. Francis. The interior furnishings were more spartan by comparison to the lavishly decorated churches of Rome but just as spiritual as the entire structure seem to embody the simplicity of this man. We ventured down to the dark, cavernous crypt where the remains of St. Francis lies in his tomb. Enveloped by stone and metal, the tomb seems to transform you into a meditative state that surrounds you with peace and utter tranquility. When we left we realized we were not the same. Afterwards we ventured around the square outside of the basilica to take in more of the view of the Umbrian plain.

Later that day we strolled through the village to take in the local ambiance and enjoy the window shopping and the gelato. As we were strolling I saw two nuns walking up a flight of stairs and I managed a quick snapshot. Its funny how these spontaneous snapshots can lead to something magical. After looking at the picture I realized I captured the very soul of this little village with a photo of these two sisters walking into a divinely lit path of light with certainty and determination of what is expected of them. I later decided that of all of the 100s of pictures I snapped - this was my favorite.

Later that day we found a bar that was showing the World Cup soccer match between Italy and Australia so you know who the local crowd was cheering for. When we walked in everyone noticed Matt's Italian team soccer shirt so, naturally, we were welcomed warmly and given a nice place to sit with full view of the TV. The game was exciting as one might expect and Italy pulled out a 1 - 0 victory on a free kick. The camaraderie felt in that room needed no translation as we all erupted in jubilation when the only score was made and for a brief moment we were all famiglia.

We finished the day with dinner at a small cafe that was carved out of a cliff providing the most beautiful view of the Umbrian plains that one could imagine. We engaged in a wonderful meal with Matt and Michelle as we watched the sun drop lazily in the west bringing to a close the end of a perfect day. After dinner we slowly walked back to our hotel reflecting on the events of the day and enjoying the mellow evening air. We lingered in the brightly lit square watching the multitude of locals and tourists milling around enjoying in lively conversation.

Monet's Eiffell Tower

2006-08-09T11:06:00.000-07:00

On our trip to Paris I took a photo of the Eiffel Tower looking straight up against a stunning blue sky. Although the shot was pretty it wasn't interesting and it's been done countless number of times before. I thought it might be different to replace the blue sky with a pastel sky dotted with whispy clouds from a Monet landscape, which I shot at the Orsay Museum. The results were far beyond what I expected. The 8X10 of this is beautiful after some color balancing and blending. Hope you like it. If you want a higher quality jped file of this leave your e-mail address and I'll send it.

June 24 - Last Day in Rome

2006-08-05T09:25:00.000-07:00

We woke up this morning realizing this was our last day in Rome. Believe it or not I actually worried that we would spend too many days in Rome when we were planning this little jaunt. How naive can one be!! Today we asked ourselves how can this be over, we just arrived!

Today's objective was to visit the Pantheon. Thanks to Rick Steves and other guide books, I became fascinated by this architectural wonder and made sure we allocated adequate time to not just see it but explore it. My son-in-law, who is also an architect, during his days when he lived in Rome, told me that once he sat in the famous domed room for hours studying the genius of this seemingly simple, but enormously complex structure. The story is told that Michelangelo modeled the dome of St. Peters after the Pantheon. What makes this great is not just the size but proximity of the dome. In St. Peter you understand that the dome is impressive, because you are told that, but you can't fully appreciate because it sits in the sky halfway to the moon. In the Pantheon, the supporting walls and columns sit lower to the ground giving the observer a much closer view of the detail - and immensity! After 2 hours of gazing at the art, tombs, and history we finally left to explore the surrounding area.

Thanks to Rick Steve's guidebook we found three small, but uniquely beautiful, churches near the Pantheon that captured our attention and took away the rest of our afternoon. The Church of St. Ignazio was, I found, to be the most interesting of the three. As was pointed out in the guide books, this church features, along with some beautiful Baroque art, an allusion of a false dome that really does trick the eye into thinking an actual dome exists - at least when you first enter. When you stand directly underneath it do you realize the off center placement of the oculus creates the allusion when viewed from the entrance and where the congregation sits.

Later that day we walked over to the Spanish Steps to take in the sites there and then board the Metro at the Spagno stop. We were warned of crowded trains but we were so hot and tired that we just wanted to get back to our room for our usual late afternoon nap. When the train arrived at our stop it was standing room only but, reluctantly, we boarded and stayed close together, weary of the infamous Roman pickpockets. There were no problems until the next stop when, suddenly, I was surrounded by 5-6 kids in their early teens. The red flags shot up and I knew we were in trouble. One of the them asked me for the time while the others frisked my like I was a goat at a petting zoo. They worked amazingly fast but, of course, they found nothing - I made sure of that. However, another one had already unzipped my backpack when a lady passenger caught my eye and gave me a nod of warning. I turned my backpack around and, although it was open, nothing was taken. I looked up at the woman as she deboarded off of the train and said "Grazie, Senora". She smiled at me and softly replied "Prego". Although the incident left us shaken we were never in any danger of losing anything really valuable - but still it could have been very inconvenient for us. Thank you Rick Steves for you words of warning. We were prepared!

That night we went to a production of La Traviata by Verde, being staged by a local opera company in an Anglican church not far from our hotel. We picked up a flyer for this production in the square in front of The Pantheon so we made sure we left ourselves plenty of time to attend. We had a quick bite at Don Govani's (fantastico!) near the Termini station and went to the opera. What a special evening it was. I can count on one hand the number of operas I've attended so I can safely say this was the greatest one yet. Fran and I promised ourselves that we would attend more (in fact we're going to see Mozart's Don Giovanni in late August up in Fort Collins. At the close of the opera we sadly realized our stay in Rome was over but looked forward to boarding the train to Assisi.

June 23 - Tour of the Vatican

2006-08-03T18:44:00.000-07:00

The tour I was most looking forward to had finally arrived - the tour of Vatican City. We had arranged with our tour guide yesterday - who gave us a tour of the Colosseum - to join his tour today into the Vatican. He promised us an informative tour with shortcuts that would bypass some of the long lines. We joined up at the subway stop and, with the rest of the group (about 20) we jumped in line. Although it looked long, we moved through very quickly and were already in the Vatican entrance in about 30 minutes. Our leader gave us head-phones to hear his narration and we began the tour. He started out giving us a 20 minute overview and history of Vatican City. He included detail pictures of St. Peters, the Sistene Chapel, and the Vatican Museum as well as something interesting background information. Although I had trouble focusing totally on him because it began to feel like a college lecture, his talk was very informative and provided an adequate foundation for the tour.

Our first stop was the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. I was expecting something different in the museum, such as more artifacts and memorabilia of past Papal administrations as well as more diverse art. Instead it was mostly tapestries and frescos that were impressive but not what I was expecting. I guess because it was so crowded we were afforded little time for study of anything in detail. We finally got to the Sistene Chapel and after a bit of a wait and final instructions - we could wander through the chapel for only 15 minutes and then leave - we entered in. Although it was smaller and darker (due to the dim lighting) than I expected, you were still awe-struck by the beauty of Michelangelo's fantastic ceiling frescos depicting scenes from the Old Testament. The work was enormous and one needed at least 2 hours, maybe even a day, to fully study and comprehend the greatness of his hand. After spending our allotted 15 minutes in the chapel gazing at the magnificent work - and getting 'sushhhed' by the Sistine hall monitors, we moved on to the next stop on the tour.

Our next visit was going to be the St. Peter's Basilica but the tour guide directed us, instead, to the crypt, that was suddenly open with no line. He move us through a door and a long hallway and there we were. I expected to descend a long stairway into a subterranean world of dripping water, eerie sounds, and ghostly images prancing around like moths in a light. But instead, we stepped down one or two steps and there we were - the burial places of the church's many great leaders including Pope John Paul II. At his tomb you could not help but be moved by the somber mood of the visitors there, the hauntingly beautiful voices of a ladies choir singing in the background, and the simple setting of a man whose life and impact on our modern world was far from simple.

After our stroll through the tomb it was time to venture on to St. Peters where we were finally set loose by our guide and were allowed to linger through the entire basilica at our own pace. When you enter the sanctuary through the great doors of the church you can never be fully prepared at the immensity of this great structure. The ceiling was so tall that a small cloud layer seemingly formed at the top was present as revealed by a shaft of light blazing through a small dome. This truly is one of the holiest places on earth, at least for Christians, and, although we are not Catholic, this church serves as our Mecca. We spent a couple of hours here walking on the stone floor, gazing at the magnificent statues, giant columns, and immense arches that were so tall, you wondered how the huge stone slabs resting at the top of the arch were ever lifted up there except by divine levitation. To say this place was inspirational would be an understatement. As you walk down the nave to the great Michelangelo dome you never escape the sense that you are standing atop the ancient grave site of a man whom Jesus called "The Rock of which His church would be built".

After lingering for most of the afternoon in the chapel we wandered outside to view the great Columnade by Bernini in St. Peter's Square. The air was stifling and the heat was oppressive but that didn't stop us from viewing this great architectual masterpiece beautifully highlighted by the blazing sun. By days end we were exhausted and famished as this was our most tiring but fulfilling day so far on our vacation. It was time to look for our way out of Vatican City and find our subway stop to take us back to our hotel.

June 23 - My Audience With The Pope

2006-08-01T15:58:00.000-07:00

While on this glorious vacation I became inspired with a 'can't miss' idea that I had to share with the Pope. I was told that all paths to the Holy See lead through the Swiss Guard, so as soon as I got to St. Peters I approached one. (You can't miss them. They're all dressed in what appears to be these Versache combat fatigues) . Anyway, I can't recall the exact conversation but I believe it went something like this:

SWISS GUARD (SG): "May I help you?"

Me: "Yes, I would like a private audience with Big Ben."

SG: (Indignant) "If you mean Pope Benedicturs XVI, the Holy Father is not available."

Me: "Huh!? I'm sure my secretary made an appointment."

SG: "What is the purpose of your visit?"

Me: "Marketing idea. His eyes and ears only, sorry!"

SG: "Is that so? Are you Catholic?"

Me: "Are you kidding? I've seen The Exorcist 8 times. Surely that puts me in the club. Heck, I'm practically a priest."

SG: "Oh really!! Then you must have taken a vow of celibacy?"

Me: "Well apparently I did when I married my wife."

SG: "Look sir, the Holy Father has little tolerance for such irreverence and your insulting behaviour to the church."

Me: "Dangggg!!"

SG: "What is your marketing idea?"

Me: "Five words!"

SG: "Five words?"

Me: "Gas Stations Of The Cross"

SG: "Oh, please!!!!!"

Me: "No really, this idea can't miss. It could be a real hit. Finally put the big guy on the 'Map'."

SG: (Now really peeved) "THE MAP?"

Me: "You betcha! Look, between you and me His Excellency is flying way below the radar if you know what I mean?"

SG: "RADAR?"

Me: "Exactly. I'm talking obscurity here. I'm here to tell you he's on a one way ticket to the 'Tomb of the Unknown Pope' if he doesn't raise his profile a few notches."

SG: (Face is now a bright crimson)

Me: "Look, the church could make a fortune in oil. Have you seen the price of gas lately? Might as well get in on the action. Think of all the money that can be made. In fact, you guys can finally pay off that debt you owe to the Corleone family."

SG: "CORLEONE??"

Me: "Right. Didn't you see Godfather III. Golly, the weekly interest alone on that has got to be costing you guys a lot of Cardinal thumbs."

SG: "GET LOST CREEP!!"

Me: "Right."

Undaunted, I decide to take a different tact. I found a hat with some Chinese lettering and the words 'Delivery' written in English. I filled a paper bag with hot, steamy food so the stage was set for my next scheme. Amazingly, I found the same Swiss Guard fellow and the conversation went something like this:

SG: "You look familiar. Can I help you?"

Me: "Delivery for the Holy Father from Kim Chung's Happy Family."

SG: (Thinking for a long time. He smells the food) "Szechwan Beef?"

Me: "Yep! Extra spicy with double order of pork fried rice, three egg rolls, extra helping of the hot and sour, usual Beeno on the side - just the way he likes it."

SG: "Come on in. Take the elevator to the 5th floor. Turn right and look for his door on the left."

Me: "Really, is the door marked?"

SG: "Yes. You can't miss it."

Me: "What's his mark?"

SG: "Big Ben"

June 22 - First Day In Rome

2006-07-31T20:13:00.000-07:00

Today, our first morning in Roma, we arose to cappuccino and pastries, marvelous! We were on the road early so to get the 'lay of the land' we hopped on an open-air tour bus from the Termini train station. What a great idea. The air was still relatively cool so we had no problem sitting on top out in the open (like we did in Paris where we baked like Pop-Tarts in the toaster on their open air tour bus). The tour had recorded messages that guided as through the history of each stop. As we zipped through the streets of Rome its surprising how so much is contained in a small area. It seemed enormous on the map but, even in slow traffic, every stop was only a few minutes apart and most of Rome was covered in a matter of a couple of hours.

After the tour we went to the Colosseum to take in this magnificent structure. We were immediately approached by an American who worked for a tour company and offered tours of the Colosseum as well as the Forum and Palantine. We took up their offer and we're on our way. The lines into the ticket booth was at least an hour and the tour guide promised a quick entrance which we got. Our guide was Italian but spoke English fluently and was remarkably articulate. We were presented the full history of the Colosseum and guided through several areas of the stucture. He told us the story of sweaty Gladiators and viscous animals that fought each other to the death for the amusement of paying spectators and crazed leaders.

The arches were more interesting than I expected. Each arch seemed to be constructed to commerate some important feat in an emperor's life. The arch of Titus portrayed the Roman conquest of Jerusalem which resulted in the Jewish Diaspora, exiling all of the Jews from the holy land, only to return in 1949. Note the menorah being carried by Roman soldiers in the picture.

The day was very hot so we shut down about 3:00pm and went back to our room. The bed felt great as we crashed once again into our daily Italian siesta. We woke up around 7:00, showered, and went searching for food. We found a nice little place recommended by Rick Steves that was interesting, atmosphere wise, and very good cuisine. We cruised some more in the evening and went back to our room for some World Cup action and rest - tomorrow we go to meet the Pope.

June 21 - Train Strike to Rome

2006-07-28T20:57:00.000-07:00

Well CRAP we were told there would be days like this but did we really think it would happen to us? When we woke up this morning and went to check out the hotel clerk confirmed the rumor we heard the night before that the trains were on strike until 9:00PM tonight. He could offer no comfort or confidence that we would make Rome tonight but he gave me some information from the TrenoItalia web site and one train was running to the town of La Spezia and another one was connecting on to Rome. La Spezia, I wondered. Isn't that Italian for "Hey stupid, don't even think about coming here during a train strike". I had a bad feeling about this but I suggested to Fran we move on and take our chances. The hotel clerk was very supportive and said if we had to comeback he would find us a room somewhere in the village.

When we arrived at the train station I expected the kind of masses that we see American airports when weather closes the runways causing flights and people to backup. But instead we were surprised to see the terminal was largely deserted. It seems when strikes happen everyone stays home. That's when I really started to worry. Did they know something we didn't? Do these phantom trains only run on the internet? CRAP!!

My worst fears were unfounded as the train to La Spezia arrived on time and nearly empty! This was too easy and my anxiety returned. It was obvious that fate was directing us away from the safe confines of Monterosso where now we actually know people there who could help us if we were in trouble to the town of La Spezia, our 'point of no return'.

We arrived in La Spezia not long after we left Monterosso and it was also nearly deserted as people stayed away in droves. The TV monitor on the platform said the one and only train to Rome was still running and scheduled to depart at a certain time. But then, as we kept checking the monitor the expected arrival time would slip 5 minutes, then 10 minutes, then 30....CRAPPP!!!

It arrived only 1/2 hour late and we had most of the car to ourselves. We settled in quickly and told ourselves we can now relax as we are on our way to Rome...and I also promised Fran I would not say the word 'CRAP' any more today.

The ride was about 4 hours and was fairly uneventful. It made many stops to pickup folks and a few came into our berth, as the cars were starting to get full. We met a cordial gentleman from Sri Lanka who spoke better English then my Italian and we were able to chat for the entire trip. He was from Milan working for DHL and was going to Pisa for reasons he didn't explain. His family still lives in Sri Lanka and he sends money home. He spoke, with great sadness, about war in his homeland and in other parts of Africa. He seemed resigned to the notion that the violence and tension will probably not end in his lifetime. Still there are signs of hope which he clings to. He gleefully talked about the World Cup and the Ugandan team making an entrance. This was the pride of all of Africa and anticipation of great things were felt by all. I asked him to teach me some more Italian which he did. Fran asked about his family. He has his mom and dad as well as several brothers and sisters. He lives alone in Milan and has few friends there but enjoyed his quiet, simple life there.

He got off in Pisa and some young boys came on in his place. They were equally nice but did not want to engage in any conversation. I think it was more shyness from not knowing English and my Italian was far from conversational quality. They got off about an hour later and 3 high school girls got on. They were on their way to Rome for some outing and were very friendly and polite to us. They were curious about how we found Italy so far and asked if we were enjoying ourselves. They offered assistance in getting around Rome and gave us list of 'can't miss' sites for us to see. We enjoyed their company and laughed to ourselves as to how teenagers were the same all over the world. They all had cell phones, pockets full of candy and junk food, they talked incessantly - in Italian of course - and all spoke at the same time. Every random thought was uttered and there was always spontaneous laughter. Of course, they had to capture the moment with their cell phone camera with a few pictures. They were fun!

We arrived in Rome and of course Mr. Anxiety was there waiting to greet me as we got off. Our next challenge was to find our hotel. I spent quite a bit of time mapping our route from the train station to the hotel from information on the Internet. It was only minutes away according to all of my sources. So how do we get out of the trainstation? The maps implied only one main exit but I saw signs pointing to several main exits all from different directions. CRAP!

I went to tourist information and found out what and where we needed to go so we were back on track. We dragged our suitcases through the craziest traffic I've ever seen and made it to our hotel in quick fashion. We checked in, cranked up the AC, and congratulated ourselves - we arrived in Rome!

That night we strolled through the area to find our restaurant. The hotel clerk recommended a place not far from us and gave us a very detail map which was a life-saver. We were seated right way in an outdoor courtyard and started into another multi-course meal of sheer delight. After the meal our waiter brought us complementary lemoncello which Fran never had before. She loved it and it was the perfect nightcap for a very interesting day.

It was late evening but it seemed the Roman streets were coming alive. We strolled around the Republica Plaza and took some pictures as well as enjoyed the night air. After about an hour we turned in to watch the latest round of the World Cup and get ready for a busy day tomorrow.

June 20 - Hike Through The Cinque Terre

2006-07-27T20:41:00.000-07:00

Today we woke up early, grabbed a scrumptious breakfast at the hotel and proceeded to the station to catch the train for a short ride Riomaggiore. We got off and immediately hit the trail. From what we read, hiking the trails can be somewhat grueling but rewarding as you skirt along the costal hills of the Mediterranean. So off we went.

Starting out we first took a vote and made Fran the Trailboss (the vote was one in favor of Fran, none in favor of me, and one abstention) Fran took command right away. She says the key to a successful hike is:

Keeping a brisk pace
Carry only what is necessary
Maintain adequate hydration
Engage in frequent urination - in the appropriate facilities of course.

With my selective hearing I heard every instruction except the last part about the facilities so I took that as a green light to relieve myself like a Cocker Spaniel at a dog park, to which she proceeded to swat me with a newspaper, scold me, and then rub my face in my newly created wet spots.

So after some last-minute preparations we proceeded to head down the trail. The views were simply stunning! You've never seen such beautiful landscapes. We hiked a short distance to Manarola and passed through olive groves and vineyards as the trail meandered along the coast line near the water. When we arrived in Manarola we were hardly winded so we marched on to Corniglia where we found the trail to be more challenging, steeper and rockier, but even more beautiful. We trudged on and kept a quick, methodical pace and found ourselves slowly ascending into the hills away from the water. As we continued, the views of the villages from the top became more spectacular and we could hardly take our eyes off of them. We stopped frequently for water and conversation with people along the trail. There were many folks hiking like us from all over the world and each seemed eager to share there experiences and impressions of the hike so far. That part was equally enjoyable and we met many folks along the way. As we moved on we came upon the train station for Corniglia. We thought this was great because we had decided earlier to lunch there and it seemed we had already arrived. When we went past the station and back on the trail we turned the corner and was staring at an incline that seemed insurmountable. We knew, however that there was no turning back so the trailboss barked out her orders (something like, get off your lazy *#@$ you #(*$@ and get moving) and we started the long, tortuous climb.

We made the climb and entered the lovely village of Corniglia, after a rest stop and some desperate gulps of water. We were famished but didn't want to engorge ourselves as we still had much hiking to do. So we found a little bar that had some prosciutto and formaggio sandwiches stacked up like magazines in a display cabinet ready to serve. We chose one of them to split but before serving that placed the little delight in a cute little play oven which, I guess, is essential to full enjoyment. When I got the sandwich I took one bite and thought I have found the perfect food. The flavor of that simple meal was so profound I wanted to have six more. Every time I thought about it afterwards my mouth would water as I fantasize being stuck on a desert island with nothing but me and an endless supply these sandwiches - anyway I digress, the meal was pretty good.

The longest leg of the trail was ahead of us so my intrepid leader cracked the whip and we 'mushed' on. It was long indeed and the terrain became more treacherous, almost dangerous at times, as we hovered above steep cliffs just below the edge of the trail. Two hours later we reached the top of a hill and were greeted with a wondrous view of our destination - Vernazza. What an amazing view of this hilltop city perched on top of cliffs that jut out toward the sea. The view of the lovely, pastel colored buildings against the sparkling backdrop of the sea etched an image in my mind that will, hopefully, never vanish. After entering the town we decided that we had enough as the trail to Monterosso could not possibly match what we saw so far (although I'm sure it did) so we caught the 3 minute ride back to our hotel and collapsed to another glorious, and well earned siesta.

That evening we cleaned up and went into the old part of Monterosso and found a very nice cafe that seemed perfect. We sat down and met a very nice couple from Sweden. They were enjoyable company as we exchanged stories of our journeys on the trail as well as our lives in our native homeland. They were avid soccer fans and, in fact, Sweden and England were playing in the World Cup that night so they were looking forward to that event. After dinner we strolled around until it was dark and went to our room to end our perfect day in Monterosso al Mare and prepare for the next leg of our adventure - Rome!!

June 19 - Arrival into Monterosso

2006-07-27T19:10:00.000-07:00

From the moment we stepped off of the train we fell in love with Monterosso, the first Jewell of the Cinque Terra chain. I was drawn in by the charm and warmth of the locals who I found to be open and engaging and quick to offer a friendly greeting. My wife noticed something quite different. She said as soon as we arrived I gravitated to the topless sunbathers who were extremely irritated by my presence and uttered something in Italian that, later I learned, translated into "Get lost creep!" I thought they said "Please rub my sun tan lotion here" So my Italian isn't perfect - sue me!!

We checked into our hotel, another place I would recommend, called the Hotel Punta Mesco. We were exhausted from the long travel day so we settled in for an afternoon siesta. The room was tastefully decorated with bamboo style furniture, spacious bathroom, and plenty of room to move around. Very nice! They also have a great complementary breakfast every morning.

In the evening we ventured out into the village to scout the area and look for food. We found an outdoor cafe along the beachwalk that offered great pasta, salad, and some of the best local wine you have ever savored. Afterwards we strolled along the beachwalk and enjoyed the cool air drifting in from the sea and then went back to our room. On the way back we stopped at the outdoor cinema and enjoyed "The Chronicles of Narnia" - in Italian of course.

June 18 - Travel Day to Monterosso

2006-07-26T08:22:00.000-07:00

Travel days are always difficult and stressful, especially in foreign countries, because it is too difficult to predict what's going to happen next. It is the only time during a vacation where you must observe some semblance of a schedule and meet deadlines (as if you were at work) or you end up extending your stay, which may or may not be a good thing. Today we leave for the station where we will pick up our overnight train to Milan. We have all day to find the station so I'm not too worried we'll find it.

Before going to the train station we manage a few more stops in Paris, including a tour through the Hotel Invalides and Napoleon tomb. That was pretty interesting. In addition, we dashed over to view the Paris Opera House, the sight which inspired "The Phantom of the Opera". This was a stunningly beautiful building that hits you with its gorgeous facade the minute you exit the stairway from the Metro stop. We walked through the lobby for a while but could not get into the theater as the last tour had left moments ago. We were disappointed but glad that at least we got to see the building.

Later on that day we went to pick up our bags and head to the train station. Things when pretty smooth so far as we found the subway stop on the Metro and was told that the train station, for the overnights to Italy, was within walking steps of our subway stop. However, we were told the wrong direction and lost almost an hour. Finally, I went and found someone who could speak English and got us back on track. We still had plenty of time but spent almost 2 hours dragging luggage through a strange Paris neighborhood to find the train.

The train ride was a great move and I'm glad to spent the extra money to take the overnight. Rolling through the French countryside was a real treat. The lush green hills, the bucolic villages, and stunning scenery was unforgettable. In addition, we were enjoying a fantastic meal in the dining car with two very lovely French ladies from Paris who were traveling to Venice. Both were in their late 50s or early 60s and were a delight to converse with as all four of us dined together. They offered a glimpse of life in Paris while we talked about America and our family. They encouraged us to return to France and travel the rural regions by rental car and stopping randomly in any village at night to stay. As we were enjoying enjoying the evening coffee and the final moments of dinner, dusk had set in on the French country side as we gazed out over the farmlands with their rustic old farmhouses and tiny, but abundant, gardens. We said our goodbyes to our new friends and retired to the room while our porter had prepared our beds for the evening. The car was quite hot and sleep was difficult but we managed to get a few hours of shut eye before we were awakened by the porter with expresso and croissant at 4:30AM. We were only 30 minutes outside of Milan and it was time to get ready. After quickly changing and repacking we were ready to venture off.

We pulled into Milan around 5:15AM. We stepped off of the train with our luggage expecting to see a more modern train station. Instead, it seemed like we stepped back in time as we entered a station whose atmosphere and architecture never really left WWI era. The entire depot was constructed of rusty and green steel beams and frames connected by large glass panels that were semi-translucent and seem to cast an erie glow throughout the station. It was kind of nice but a bit disconcerting because few signs were in English and we had two objectives that had to be met. The first was finding the restroom and the next was finding our train to La Spezia which, by my estimation, would take us to our next stop of Monterosso in Cinque Terra. After asking around in my broken Italian where the WC were we found the toilets, which required a few coins, and found blessed relief. Afterwards the shops started opening up and so I sipped on an espresso while Fran had some tea and pastry. We found our train platform, boarded on quickly, and we were on our way to the Italian Riveria.

June 17 - Art Museum Day in Paris

2006-07-25T12:28:00.000-07:00

It's funny how little things turn out to be memorable events that can define an entire vacatin. As we were walked through the cavernous entrance into the Metro, to catch the train to The Louve, we stumbled upon a street musician playing her violin like a concert virtuoso to Vivaldi's 'The Four Seasons'. The purity of her sound stopped us dead in our tracks as we were stunned to hear, not the usual Jimmy Buffet rendetions so often strummed by aging guitarist you see leaning on a post next to the subway, but music so accoustically refined by the brick walls of the train tunnels that you thought you were at Carnegie Hall. Still, I couldn't resist and said I got 5 Euros if she would play 'Margaritaville'. Her reply was "Get lost creep!".

Our first stop of the day was the Louvre. They say you either spend two weeks or two hours at the Louvre - there is no in-between. We, of course, chose the latter and marched double-time through the entire museum and saw one of the worlds greatest art collection, The only art piece I remember, however, was the Mona Lisa, and the 3,000 tourists standing in fron of it (I exaggerate a bit). It was worth seeing the museum and exhibits but after 2 hours we were done and ready to move on.

The museum I was most looking forward to was the Musee d'Orsay which is just across the river from the Louvre. There, we found probably the best collection of Impressionist art around. We enjoyed this experience very much as we spent the entire afternoon gazing into the eyes of the painted characters, frozen in time by artists such as Van Gogh, Cezanne, Renoir, and Monet. As I gazed upon the pastel landscapes of these great artists, words from Don McLean's 'Vincent' kept creeping into my mind, creating a lovely soundtrack for this journey:

Starry, starry night

Portraits hung in empty halls

frameless heads on nameless walls

with eyes that watch the world and can't forget.

Like the stranger that you've met

the ragged men in ragged clothes

the silver thorn of bloody rose lie crushed and

broken on the virgin snow.

And now I think I know what you tried to say to me

how you suffered for your sanity

how you tried to set them free.

They would not listen they're not list'ning still

perhaps they never will.

Our day was over and it was time to look for dinner. Fran will no longer let me order for both of us because for the last five meals we've had nothing but Grey Poupon mustard. I told her "Sorry, but that is the only french entree I know. Their menus over here are not like the Denny's at home where they actually put pictures of the food right on the page - amazing!" Anyway, she probably had a point. That night we decided to ordered Italian (even though we're going to spend the next 2 1/2 weeks in Italy - we are nuts!!) . It was pretty good but I have to admit, it became the strangest dish I've ever had. I ordered a Calzone and was eating it ravenously when, nearing the end of this scrumptious meal, I cut into the middle of the item and broke open an egg yolk, spreading yellowish goo all over the entire plate. Fran caught my weird expression asked what happened and I told her that I apparently have been eating some kind of alien creature with yellow blood and I think it's still alive. What I ate stayed down however so the meal was a success after all.

That night, our last night in Paris, we purchased two tickets for a cruise down the river Seine. The night was perfect as we floated gently down the river, feeling the cooling air as it caressed our face, enjoying the glittering skyline of Paris and the Eiffel tower, and seeing the happy locals lounging on the banks of the river, while we listened to beautiful french music wafting through the air - I was so romantically moved I nearly kissed Fran. Whew, that was close!!! Afterward we rushed back to our room, excitedly tore off our clothes, jumped into bed - and watched World Cup soccer - can life get any better!

June 16 - First Full Day in Paris

2006-07-25T09:32:00.000-07:00

We woke up bright and early and were greeted with a fabulous morning sun and cool, crisp air. This was going to be a Paris morning to die for. We hit the streets early, gulped down a quick muffin and coffee and then descended into that subterranean place called the Paris Metro, where we caught a train to Notre Dame. The Metro is not as intimidating as it first appears. The color coding helps and each train, and its associated stops, are clearly marked at the platforms. The challenge was when we had to transition from the Metro to the RER train system, which intersect at various stops. We managed to find the Notre Dame stop and ascended the stairs to a wondrous view of the River Seine and the Notre Dame church. We managed to get there early enough - around 10:00AM - to escape the crowd and actually enjoy the church without being jostled about by the crowds.

The sights inside Notre Dame was breathtaking as we lingered in there for over an hour. Very dark lighting made it difficult to see any written information but the views of the spires, arches, the sculptures, and the stained-glass windows were quite clear and amazing. As we exited the building I took a second look at the facade of the cathedral and enjoyed the detail of the sculptures and carvings that surrounded the main entrance. I snapped quite a few photos and later noticed, while reviewing the shots of the day on my digital camera, the decapitated head of one of the saints depicted in the sculptures (I learned later from the Rick Steves guide book that this was the sculpture of St. Denis. He has a fascinating story behind this piece of art).

Our next stop was the St. Chapelle Cathedral which, by many accounts, is more impressive than Notre Dame. On our way we stopped at a convenient outdoor sandwich shop, bought some food, and ate on the banks of the Seine. There we met a couple from Australia who were in Paris for several days. The husband was born in La Spezia, Italy and move to Australia with his family when he was quite young. They have traveled everywhere but America, which they hope to find themselves there soon.

After lunch we made our way to St. Chapelle and were awestruck at the beautiful stain-glass work that composed of most of the walls. Outside of support columns, the walls only consisted of stain-glass quite a sight! Amazingly, this church only took 3 years to build while Notre Dame took hundreds of years. This place is a 'must see'!

As the day drew to a close we wandered over to the Deportation Museum which is a memorial to the 200,000 French souls who were deported by the Nazis to concentration camps and ultimately their death. Ironically so many of these victims last glimpse of Paris was a backside view of the Notre Dame cathedral, perhaps symbolic of the Christian indifference at the time to these horrific events.

Later that evening we sat down to another scrumptious meal for dinner and retired for the evening, totally exhausted but ready for more the next day.

June 15 - First evening in Paris

2006-07-25T08:21:00.000-07:00

As we arrived in Paris, I promised myself to not become anxious just because you're thousands miles away from home and you may never get to shower for three weeks as well as the fact that restroom facilities are so primitive that it could undo 55 years of my toilet training - but of course I became anxious anyway. That feeling of being alien crept in right away as we wandered through the Paris airport to look for our cab. In anticipation of language problems I typed out our entire trip on 3x5 cards, complete with names of hotels and locations to show cab drivers. Our first test of this was about to happen as our cab arrived at the taxi stand. I showed the driver the card and he knew instantly where we were going and few words were said after that. He spoke no English so the trip was quiet and gave us a chance to relax a bit and reflect on the next three weeks. We were on our own with no tour guide, no kids to direct us, and virtually little understanding of foreign languages - God we're doomed!

We arrived at our hotel and braced ourselves for a rude desk clerk that would probably spit on us, our luggage, and our money - (too many movies I guess). The opposite was true. The gentleman could not have been nicer, he spoke near perfect English, he was friendly and helpful, and made every effort to make us feel at home. The name was the Hotel de la Motte Picquet and there web address is www.hotelmottepicquetparis.com.

The room was nice but not luxurious, but it had everything we needed. AC, bathroom, shower, decent size bed, and a TV. Even though it had the walking space of a small RV we were very comfortable and felt this was a good choice. Our next challenge was finding dinner.

We left the safe confines of our room and ventured out into the streets of Paris where we figured muggers, pick-pocketers, and terrorists lurked about waiting to pounce. Instead, we found the Parisian streets fast-paced, crowded with people, clogged with cars - and simply beautiful! We found an outdoor cafe within steps of our hotel and sat down for our first meal on foreign soil. Our waiter suggested the chicken and rice with a glass of the house wine, bottled locally, and it was just what we needed. Simple but delicious. By the end of the evening it was already 9:00PM and it was still light enough to read the paper, so we ventured further into Paris on foot to kill some time before we go to bed. The air was very cool - almost cold - as we mistakenly thought we had fooled the weather gods and arrived in Europe during a freakish cold spell that would allow us to escape the intense heat that this continent is famous for - not true as we found out later. Anyway, our stroll through the streets of Paris was relaxing as we gazed at the beauty of the fine parks and lovely architecture of the buildings. Our first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower was breathtaking, it was bigger than I expected and you could not take your eyes off of it - what a magnificent structure!

We returned to our room and called our son in America to tell him we arrived safely. We turned in for the night and talked about what we would do the next day - our first full day in Europe.

June 14 - Flight to Paris

2006-07-25T08:07:00.000-07:00

We boarded our British Airways flight out of Denver at about 8:00 PM. Tonight we were flying a 777 stretch with pretty good leg room and some reclining space. My daughter's pre-flight 'fear-of-flying' drugs were already kicking in so she was already at cruising altitude before the doors were closed and the seat-belts clicked. Once we got her installed in her seat the rest of us settled in for the long flight. BA people are always so friendly and genuinely courteous that it almost make flying a pleasure. After a fairly decent meal and a couple of movies I somehow drifted into fitful, Ambien induced sleep.

We were over somewhere over Nova Scotia when we suddenly hit some severe turbulence that rocked the plane so much it nearly woke up the pilots. Luckily it was short lived and the plane continued on a smooth ride to our destination, even though I didn't sleep anymore. We landed in London around 2:00 PM the next day where we said goodbye to Matt and Michelle as they caught a jet to Amsterdam and we waited at our gate for the bird to Paris. We boarded on right away and landed in Paris around 4:00PM. Matt and Michelle would tour Northern Europe, including attending a World Cup game and we would head to Italy via Paris, France (we would meet up with them later in Assisi).